Garment construction and method of making the same



Feb.r23, 1937. s. sHARPs 2,072,050

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD'OF vMAKING THE SAME Filed April 17. 193e s sheets-sheet 1 unil Feb. z3, 1937. s. SHARPS 2,072,050

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 17, 1956 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

@am ECW INVENTOR Same/7 l Feb. 23, 1937. sq SHARPS' 2,072,050

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 17, 1936 s sheets-sheet s null' INVENTOR ATTOR Patented Feb. 23, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Philadelphia, Pa.

Application April 1'7, 1936, Serial No. 74,818

6 Claims.

The present invention relates to a certain new and usefulgarment construction or method of making garments, and relates more particularly to a new and useful sweater construction or a l method of making sweaters.

The object of the present invention is to make a sweater which will be more comfortable and serviceable to the wearer, which will be more durable, and which will be of simpler construction, with the resultant lowering of cost of production.

The present invention is equally applicable to both pull-over sweaters, as well as to the front y buttcning type sweaters.

l" With the above and other objects in view, the present invention contemplates the formation of the entire sweater (excepting only super-added cuffs and collar and other possible trimmings), of an integral piece of tubular knitted fabric in such a way that substantially the entire tube may be utilized without any waste, and so that the body of the sweater may be formed of the tube in its initial condition, while all other parts of the sweater, including the sleeves, may be l5 likewise formed of the tube without destroying the integral character of the fabric of which the garment is formed.

The present invention further contemplates a sweater construction in which the sleeves and shoulders are produced by opening up the upper part of the tube (without the necessity of severing the same from the body), and then reforming the thus opened up portion with its axis at a right angle to the original tube.

The present invention further contemplates a sweater in which the knitted courses are in the same direction in all parts of the garment.

The present invention further consists of other novel features and details of construction, all

of which will appear more fully from the following detailed description and accompanying drawings.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, there are shown in the accompanying drawings forms thereof which are at present preferred,

since the same have been found in practice to give satisfactory and reliable results, although it is to be understood that the various instrumen- 50 talities of which the invention consists can be variously arranged and organized and that the invention is not limited to the precise arrangement and organization of the instrumentalities as herein shown and described.

55 Figure 1 represents a front elevational View of av pull-over sweater embodying the vpresent invention.

Figure 2 represents a similar perspective view of a front-buttoning sweater embodying the present invention.

Figure 3 represents a rear View of the sweater embodying the present invention (which may be either the pull-over type sweater or the frontbuttoning type), showing the stitching lines.

Figure 4 represents a line on section 4-4 of 10 Figure 3. f

Figure 5 represents a fragmentary rear elevational view of the lower portion of' the sweater showing the finished appearance of the lower rear part of the sweater. 15

Figure 6 represents a top plan view of the pattern from which the sweater is cut.

`Figure 7 represents a piece of tubular knitted fabric after the pattern has been applied thereto.

Figure 8 represents a view of the pocket por- 20 tion cut out of the tube, indicated in Figure '7.

Figure 9 represents a view of the cut fabric just prio-r to the assembly sewing operations.

Figure 10 represents a front perspective after the sewing operations. 25

According to the present invention, the fabric of which the sweaters are made is knitted on a tubular knitting machine of a diameter such that the circumference more or less approximates the distance fro-m the tip of one sleeve 30 to the tip of the other sleeve, measured across the shoulders and in back of the neck;-the tip of the sleeve being for this purpose regarded as the end of the sleeve proper without the superadded cuffs. .35'

The tubular sweater fabric so formed ismore elastic in a circumferential direction than in an axial or longitudinal direction.

For different sizes of sweaters differentv diameters of knitting machines are employed, although due to the elasticity of the fabric each diameter of knitting machine and each diameter of tubular fabric will be sufficient for the construction of a fair range of sweater sizes, so that the entire range of sizes may be made up under comparatively few machines of different diameters.

The tubular fabric, as it is delivered from the knitting machine in a continuous piece, is cut into pieces of predetermined length, so that the length is more or less equal to the length of the sweater measured at the front up to approximately the center line of the shoulder, plus an additional amount equal to approximately one-half the circumference of the sleeve at its root, plus an additional small amount required for hemming the bottom and perhaps for seaming.

The fabric is then laid flat in a doubled condition and the pattern I2 shown in Figure 6 is applied thereto. Thus, the tubular fabric i3 is laid flat and cut according to the pattern 6 with the result indicated in Figure 7;-the slits I4 and l5, indicating cutting lines through both lines of fabric of the tube, while the slits i6 and l1 indicate cutting lines merely for the upper ply of fabric.

Thus, the slit i4 in the pattern l2 is responsible for the transverse out 24 in the tube extending around somewhat more than half the circumference of the tube, while the slit l5is responsible for a similar cut 25. The slits i6 and l'i areresponsible for the cuts 2S and 2l, respectively,

which in the cutting operation are extended up to the cutV 25 so as to completely sever the piece of fabric marked 20 (from which the pockets may subsequently be formed). A longitudinal cut Si! is then made along the fold line from the cut 24 to the upper end of the tube so that the cut 30 will be diametrically opposite to the neck opening 28 which is cut along the indented edge portion I8 of the pattern.

The lower end of the tubular fabric piece is `left with its rectangular cu as indicated by the lower end of the pattern $3, while the upper end of the tube is slightly shaped as at 29, responsive to the similarlyshaped edge i9 of the pattern. Ihis slight shaping of the upper edges is to match the edges 29 with the edges 24.

They effecting operation illustrated in Figures 6 and 7 results in an integral and complete sweater blank indicated in Figure 9, wherein the longitudinally cut 30 upper portion of the tubular fabric contains the neck opening 28 opposite the cut 3U.

Thereafter, the body portion designated in Figure 9 by the numeral 3| is reduced in circumference by a suitable number of pleats taken in the back as indicated in Figures 3 and 4, until the circumferential distance 4across the back from the point 32 to the point 33 will be substantially equal to the distance from the point 34 to the point 35. In the particular embodiment of the invention herein shown, only the central body portion 3! is left tubular because the lower body portion 36 is reduced in circumference by taking out the piece 23. If desired, however, the lower body portion 3S may also be left in its tubular condition and its circumference reduced by similarly pleating, or by extending the pleats 3l down through the lower body portion 36 to the lower edge of the sweater.

After the circumference of the body portion 3| has thus been reduced, the upper portion 38 of the sweater blank is folded along the line 39` so as to bring the outer portions of the cut edges 29 in juxtaposition with the outer edges 24 so as to bring the central body portion of the edge 29 in juxtaposition to the pleated edge 24.

These edges are then united by a suitably sewn seam 4@ the outer portions of which form the sleeve and the inner portion of Which unites the top of the sweater with the body of the sweater at the back.

In the particular embodiment of the present invention the lower body portion 35 is then cornpleted by uniting the edges 26 and 2l by the seam 4i (Figure 3) and uniting the unpleated lower cut edge 25 with the pleated upper cut edge 25 along the back seam 42. This completes the sweater except for finishing operations such as the formation of a suitable hem at the bottom and the application of cuffs 43 and collar 44 and belt 45.

The cuffs 43 and collar 44 are sewn on in any suitable manner and may be formed of any suitable material, generally a rib-knitted material.

While in the illustration given in the accompanying drawings separate cuffs are shown, it is to be understood that the presence or absence of such cuffs does not affect the present invention,

as the sleeve may be formed with the superadded cuffs or may be formed by merely folding back upon itself a part of the sleeve and sewing it in place in such forward condition. Therefore, in referring the circumference of the knit tube to the distance between the end of one sleeve and the end of the other sleeve (across the shoulders and back of the neck), the super-added cuffs are not considered as part o f this dimension, but if the cuffs are to be formed byfolding a part of the sleeve back upon itself', then, naturally, this added sleeve length would be considered in such circumferential dimension, and the sleeveend to sleeve-end dimension, referred to in the claims, should be interpreted accordingly.

It will be observed in the sweater construction of the present invention that the usual seams present at the root of the sleeves and across the shoulders and down the sides of the body in conventional sweater constructions are completely absent and the entire garment is made of an integral piece of fabric.

It will also be observed that in the finished garment of the present construction the courses of knitting extend circumferentially in the body of the garment so that the circumferential resiliency of the original knitted tube will be circumferen tially disposed in the body of the garment, while the knitted courses are disposed longitudinally in the sleeves so that the circumferential resiliency of the original knitted tube will be disposed not circumferentially but longitudinally in the sleeves. This clearly enhances the freedom of motion of the arms because of the greater resiliency both at the elbows and at the shoulders and the absence of all binding around the root of the sleeves.

While in the particular embodiment herein shown the circumference of the central body portion 3i was reduced by pleating as at 3l, such reduction can be effected in the back, and the elimination of a piece of fabric at such cut and then forming a seam at the back. Likewise, it may be reduced by a combination of pleating and the elimination of a piece of fabric from the circumference.

Also, as mentioned heretofore, the same treatment for the reduction of the circumference of the central body portion 3i may be app-lied or extended to the lower body portion 36, although different circumference-reducing steps may bc applied to the central and lower body portions 3i and 3% as illustrated in the particular illustra` tions in the accompanying drawings.

If desired, a suitable fabric or similar belt 45 may be applied to the back, across the seam 42. If desired, patch pockets 4t may be sewn to the front of the garment. These pockets may be formed of the piece of fabric 2D.

As heretofore pointed out the sweater of the present construction may either be of the pullover type indicated in Figure l or it may be of the front-buttoning type indicated in Figure 2. In the latter case the front is merely slitted open and the neck trimming 44 is extended down along both the front vertical edges and provided with suitable buttons and button holes, or other 'suitable fastening means.

As a result of the present invention, not only is the resultant product greatly enhanced as hereinabove pointed out, but the cost of reduction is minimized because of the substantial elimination of waste and because the pieces of fabric to be handled as well as the seaming operations required for their assembly, is minimized.

The present invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or esential attributes thereof, and it is therefore desired that the present embodiment be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, reference being had to the appended claims rather than to the foregoing description to indicate the scope of the invention.

With reference to the following claims defining the method forming a part of the present invention it should be understood that the invention in the method is not limited and is not intended to be limited by the claims to the particular sequence in which the steps happen to be recited because, obviously, such sequence can be altered and varied at will without departing from the essential method forming a part of the present invention. Thus, for instance, in cutting the sweater blank the various cuts can be made in any sequence desired. Likewise, in assembling the blank into the sweater formation by the several seams the order in which these seams are made can be varied somewhat. Thus, for instance, the cuts 2li, 25, 26, 21, 23, 29, and 3D can be made in l any order desired, and need not be made in the particular order just recited, nor in the particular order in which they are set out in the claims, and the order in which these cuts are made is not intended and is not to be regarded as a limitation of the claims in which these steps of the method are recited. Likewise, for instance, instead of rst sewing the seam 4B and then the seams 4| and 42, thisv may be reversed, and the seams 4l and 42 may be sewn first and the seam 4E] thereafter. The only essentialsequence inherent in the novel method of the present invention may be broadly stated to be first the knitting of the tube of the predetermined diameter, then the cutting of the sweater blank, and next the seaming of the cut edges into the sweater assembly. Except for this sequence, the sequence of other subsidiary steps may be varied at will within the scope of the present invention.

Having thus described the invention, what is hereby claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

l. The method of making sweaters which includes knitting an open-ended tube of a circumference more or less approximating the desired over-all dimension from the end of one sleeve to the end of the other sleeve, across the shoulders and back of the neck, cutting said tube transversely through a part of its circumference at a distance from the top of the tube, more or less approximating the circumference of a sleeve at its root, cutting longitudinally the portion of said tube above said transverse cut to divide it into halves to form equal sleeve extensions, cutting a neck opening in the said tube diametrically opposite to the aforesaid longitudinal cut, with the uppermost part of said neck opening spaced downwardly from the upper end of the tube a distance less than the distance of said aforementioned transverse cut, reducing the circumference of the tube below said transverse cut, folding the sleeve projections lo-ngitudinally and uniting the longitudinal edges thereof by suitable seams and uniting the upper edge of the tube intermediate said sleeve projections with the reducedcircumference portion of the tube.

2. The method of making sweaters which includes providing an open-ended knitted tube of a circumference more or less approximating the desired over-all dimension from the end of one sleeve to the end of the other sleeve, across the shoulders, and back .of the neck, cutting said tube transversely through a part of its circumference at a distance from the top thereof more or less approximating the circumference of a sleeve at its root, cutting longitudinally the portion of said tube above said transverse cut to divide it into halves to form equal sleeve extensions, cutting a neck opening diametrically opposite to the aforesaid longitudinal cut, folding the sleeve projections longitudinally and uniting the longitudinal edges thereof by suitable seams, and uniting by a suitable seam the upper edge of the tube intermediate said sleeve projections with the part of the tube beneath the aforesaid transverse cut.

3. A sweater composed of an integral piece of tubular knitted fabric whose courses run circumferentially of the body of the sweater, and run longitudinally in the sleeves of the sweater, said sweater having a continuous seam extending longitudinally of the sleeves on the under side thereof and across the back, and having generally upright pleats formed in the back thereof beneath said seam.

4. A sweater composed of an integral piece of tubular knitted fabric whose courses run circumferentially of the body of the sweater and run longitudinally of the sleeves of the sweater, said sweater having a continuous seam extending 1ongitudinally of the sleeves and across the back, and devoid of seams around the arm holes and devoid of vertical seams beneath the arm holes.

5. A sweater composed of an integral piece of tubular knitted fabric whose courses run circumferentially in the body thereof, and longitudinally in the sleeves thereof, and devoid of seams around the arm holes and devoid of vertical seams beneath the arm holes and having longitudinal sleeve seams and a back seam intermediate of said sleeve seams and formed in continuation thereof.

6. A sweater composed of an integral piece of tubular knitted fabric whose courses run circumferentially in the body thereof, and longitudinally in the sleeves thereof, and devoid of seams around the arm holes and Ydevoid of vertical seams beneath the arm holes and having longitudinal sleeve seams and a back seam intermediate of said sleeve seams and formed in continuation thereof and pleats in the back beneath said last mentioned seam.

SAMUEL SHARPS. 

